Electric hobs fail in ways that look alarming and usually turn out to be narrower than they first appear. An induction zone that has gone dead while the other three still boil normally points at the power module for that zone, its coil, or the connection between the two, not at the whole appliance. A ceramic hob where every zone is cold more often points at the supply reaching the hob, a burnt connection at the terminal block, or the main power board losing its low-voltage output. Solid-plate hobs bring their own faults: a plate that warms but never gets properly hot, an energy regulator stuck on full, corrosion creeping under the plate rim. We work on induction, ceramic and solid-plate electric hobs only. On the visit the engineer who attends isolates the hob, gets access from above or through the unit below where the worktop and fixings allow, and works through the zones, the touch control panel, the thermal sensors and the power board in turn, so you are told which part has actually failed rather than given a guess. Plenty of call-outs end with a child lock cleared or a pan proved wrong, and we say so plainly instead of selling a part you do not need. The £80 call-out covers that diagnosis and the labour on most repairs, any part needed is quoted before it is fitted, and the part we fit carries a 3-month guarantee.
£80
call-out charge per visit
Labour is included for most repairs. More extensive or complex jobs may require additional labour, which we always quote and agree with you before starting. Parts are charged separately and always quoted before we fit them.
We are not registered for VAT. The price we quote is the price you pay.
Usually: On induction this is usually a failed power module or inverter for that zone, or a broken connection at the coil. On ceramic it is normally an open-circuit radiant element.
On the visit: We test the coil or element for continuity and resistance, then check whether the module driving that zone is still switching, so the failure is pinned to one component rather than the whole hob.
Usually: Most often the supply — a tripped switch on the wall, or a loose and heat-damaged connection at the hob's terminal block. Sometimes the main power board has lost its low-voltage output.
On the visit: We check what voltage is arriving at the terminal block, inspect the connections for scorching and arcing, and test the board's output rails before anything is condemned.
Usually: Usually the pan rather than the hob. Non-ferrous, thin-based or warped pans, and bases narrower than the zone ring, mean the coil never sees a proper load and the control shuts the zone down.
On the visit: We test the zone with a known-good ferrous pan and check yours with a magnet. If the zone heats correctly we show you what is happening and there is no part to sell you.
Usually: Nearly always the child lock is engaged, often triggered by a wet cloth during cleaning. Where it is genuinely faulty, the touch panel has taken in moisture or grease and is reading a permanent press.
On the visit: We clear the lock, test every touch key for response, then check the control panel and its ribbon connection behind the glass for moisture damage and corroded tracks.
Usually: The thermal sensor under that zone has drifted out of tolerance, or its loom has chafed against the frame, so the control still believes the glass is hot and will not release the zone.
On the visit: We read the sensor resistance against the figure it should give cold, inspect the loom where it passes the chassis edge, and fit a new sensor if the reading is out of range.
Usually: Almost always a dropped pan or lid, or a hot base pressed onto a trapped crumb. Once started, the crack spreads a little further with every heat cycle.
On the visit: We advise you to stop using the hob, take the full model number and check whether a replacement glass top is still available for it. The glass is one of the more expensive hob parts, so we tell you honestly when a repair is not worth doing.
Usually: Overheating protection doing its job. Either the cooling fan has failed or slowed, or the ventilation gap under the hob is blocked by a drawer packed tight beneath it, so the electronics reach their cut-out temperature.
On the visit: We check the fan spins up and draws air, clear the vent path, feel how hot the underside runs on load, and where the drawer below is the cause we explain exactly what has to be moved.
3-month guarantee on the part we replace. Any part we replace is guaranteed for 3 months from the date it is fitted. This covers the replaced part only — it is not a warranty on the whole appliance.
Pick your district for local detail, or just call — we cover 16 districts across West London and Harrow.
Usually not. Induction hobs drive their zones from separate power modules, so a single dead zone points at that module, its coil, or the connection between them rather than at the appliance as a whole. We test the coil for continuity and check whether the module is still switching before recommending anything, and on many models the coil or module is replaceable on its own, leaving the rest of the hob untouched.
Hold a fridge magnet against the base of the pan. If it does not grip firmly, the hob cannot induce a current in it and the zone will beep and shut off exactly as though it were broken. A base narrower than the printed zone ring, or one that has warped so it rocks, causes the same behaviour. We test with a known-good ferrous pan first, before anything comes apart.
Often not. Almost every ceramic and induction hob has a child lock that engages with a long press or a two-key combination, and while it is on the zone controls simply ignore you. Wiping the glass with a wet cloth is a common way to switch it on by accident. We show you the unlock sequence for your model, and if the panel still refuses to respond we test the touch keys and the ribbon behind the glass for moisture damage.
Sometimes, and we will tell you straight either way. A cracked top cannot be patched and should not be used, because spills track down through the crack onto the wiring and coils underneath. The glass top is one of the more expensive parts on a hob, and on older or budget models it is often discontinued. We take the exact model number, check availability and quote you before ordering, so you can decide whether replacing the hob makes better sense.
The call-out is £80 per visit and covers the diagnosis plus the labour on most hob repairs — clearing a child lock, remaking a burnt terminal connection, fitting a thermal sensor or swapping a radiant element. More involved work, such as stripping a hob down to reach a power board, may need additional labour, which is quoted and agreed with you before it starts. Parts are charged on top and always quoted before fitting, and the part we replace carries a 3-month guarantee covering that part rather than the whole hob. We cover the sixteen districts within four miles of Northolt.