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Integrated appliance repair across West London and Harrow

An integrated appliance is the one you cannot see: a washing machine, dishwasher, fridge or oven built into a run of units with a cupboard door screwed to the front so it disappears into the kitchen. The machines themselves fail in exactly the same ways as freestanding ones — pumps block, elements go open circuit, door seals perish, fans stop — but almost nothing can be tested until the appliance is out of its housing, and getting it out is a job in itself. There are worktop screws or side-fixing brackets holding it in, a plinth that usually has to come off first, a decor door hung on either a sliding-hinge runner or a fixed-bracket system, and an aperture that is frequently a few millimetres tighter than the machine once a tiled floor has been laid up to it. Plenty of the faults we are called to are not appliance faults at all but door furniture: brackets that have crept in their slots, hinge cables that have stretched, springs set for a lighter panel than the one now hanging on them. The visit starts with the £80 call-out, which covers coming out and diagnosing the fault, and labour is included for most repairs. Please say when you book that the appliance is integrated, so we arrive knowing the machine has to be drawn out and put back properly. Parts are quoted before we fit them, and whatever we replace carries a 3-month guarantee on that part.

£80

call-out charge per visit

Labour is included for most repairs. More extensive or complex jobs may require additional labour, which we always quote and agree with you before starting. Parts are charged separately and always quoted before we fit them.

We are not registered for VAT. The price we quote is the price you pay.

What you can rely on

  • 10 years' experience
  • £2,000,000 public liability insurance
  • 3-month guarantee on the part we replace
  • £80 call-out — labour included on most repairs
  • No VAT — the price we quote is the price you pay

Faults we see most on a integrated appliance

The cupboard door on the front sits proud of its neighbours, catches the next door along, or has dropped so the gap at the top has closed up.

Usually: The mounting brackets have crept in their adjustment slots, or the fixing screws have pulled loose in the chipboard — on a sliding-hinge machine the runner itself has usually worked slack.

On the visit: We slacken the brackets off, reset the panel square to the cabinet fronts, reposition or upsize the fixings where the chipboard has given up, and set the slide so the door tracks cleanly again.

An integrated dishwasher door swings down under its own weight and lands hard, or has to be pushed to stay shut.

Usually: The balance springs and hinge cables are tensioned for the weight of the decor panel, so a frayed cable, a tired spring or a heavier replacement panel throws that balance out.

On the visit: We take the panel off, check the cables where they run over the pulleys, retension or renew the spring set to suit the actual panel weight, then reset the catch so the door holds without slamming.

A built-in washing machine or washer-dryer bangs, drums and shifts about inside the cabinet on the spin, loud enough to hear through the whole kitchen.

Usually: Usually the fixing brackets under the worktop have loosened or were never fitted at all, the feet are off level on an uneven floor, and the tub is knocking the cabinet sides rather than anything internal having failed.

On the visit: We draw the machine out onto floor protection, spin the drum by hand to feel the bearings and check the suspension, level the feet, then refit it tight to the brackets so the cabinet is not doing the damping.

The appliance will not come forward out of its gap at all, or moves an inch and jams solid.

Usually: Worktop screws hidden under a trim strip, a plinth that is screwed rather than clipped, a supply hose or flex too short to allow any travel, or a tiled floor laid after the kitchen that has raised the machine into the worktop.

On the visit: We locate every fixing before anything is pulled, lift the front of the machine onto skids so it clears the floor, free the hoses and cable so nothing is dragged tight, and only then walk it out.

A swollen plinth, a dark line along the base of the cabinet or a musty smell, with no puddle anywhere you can see.

Usually: A slow leak in a boxed-in machine runs backwards into the cabinet base instead of out across the floor, so a weeping hose clip or a split sump hose can go months without being spotted.

On the visit: We get the machine out, dry and inspect the cabinet base and the plinth, then run the appliance in the open where the drip can actually be watched and traced back to the joint that is weeping.

An integrated fridge or freezer that ices up at the back, runs warmer than it is set to, or has the motor running almost constantly.

Usually: Very often the housing rather than the machine: a blocked plinth grille, a chimney gap behind the unit that has been boarded over, or a sliding-hinge door that is no longer pulling fully shut onto the seal.

On the visit: We check the door closes and seals along its whole length, clear the ventilation path at the plinth and above the cabinet, and only then look at the fan, defrost heater and thermostat inside the appliance.

A built-in oven that trips the electrics, loses power intermittently, or gives off a scorched smell from the back of its housing.

Usually: The connection block behind the oven, or the flex crushed between the appliance and the cabinet the last time it was pushed back, is the usual finding rather than a failed oven.

On the visit: We withdraw the oven from the housing, check the connection block and the flex for heat damage, remake the terminations properly and route the cable so it cannot be trapped again when the oven goes back.

What we check on the visit

  • Decor door fixings and bracket positions noted and marked before anything is undone
  • Sliding-hinge runner or fixed-bracket mounting identified, so the machine comes out the right way
  • Worktop screws, side-fixing screws and plinth fixings all located, including any hidden under trims
  • Aperture height and floor level measured against the machine before it is drawn forward
  • Door springs, hinge cables and catch tension set to the weight of the actual decor panel
  • Ventilation path, plinth grille and the cable and hose run behind the housing checked before refitting

3-month guarantee on the part we replace. Any part we replace is guaranteed for 3 months from the date it is fitted. This covers the replaced part only — it is not a warranty on the whole appliance.

Read the full guarantee

Where we cover

We cover a four-mile radius around Northolt — sixteen postcode districts across West London and Harrow. Anything outside that list is outside our area.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if my appliance is integrated, and why does it matter when I book?

If the front of the machine is a cupboard door matching the rest of the kitchen, and you cannot see a control panel until you open that door, it is integrated. It matters because the appliance usually has to come out of its housing before the fault can even be seen properly, which changes how long we allow for the visit and what we bring with us. Please mention it when you book, and if you happen to know whether the door is on a sliding hinge or fixed brackets, tell us that as well.

Why does repairing a built-in appliance take longer than a freestanding one?

Because the repair starts before the repair. The decor door has to come off, usually the plinth with it, the worktop or side-fixing screws have to be found and released, hoses and cable freed so nothing gets dragged tight, and the machine walked out of a gap that is often barely wider than it is. Then the whole lot goes back, level and lined up with the neighbouring cabinet fronts. On a freestanding machine that entire stage is a two-minute pull forward.

What does it cost to repair an appliance that is built into the kitchen?

The call-out is £80 per visit and labour is included for most integrated repairs, including drawing the machine out of its housing and refitting it, which we treat as part of the job rather than as an add-on. A more involved repair, such as stripping a boxed-in washing machine to reach a leaking sump, or rehanging a door that has torn its fixings out of the chipboard, may need additional labour, which we quote and agree with you before starting. Parts are charged on top and always quoted before we fit them.

Will taking the appliance out of the units damage my kitchen?

We work to avoid it: floor protection down first, every fixing located before anything is pulled, and the front of the machine lifted rather than dragged across vinyl or a wooden floor. What we cannot promise is that a kitchen somebody else fitted will come apart cleanly. Plinths bedded in with silicone, screws driven straight into bare chipboard and tiles laid up tight to the machine all carry some risk, and where we can see that risk before starting, we will say so and let you decide.

If the fault turns out to be the door hinges or brackets rather than the machine, is that still covered?

Yes, on exactly the same terms as any other part. If we fit a hinge kit, a spring and cable set, a mounting bracket or a door catch, that specific part carries a 3-month guarantee from the date of the visit. The guarantee covers the part we replaced, not the whole appliance and not the kitchen it sits in, so if the machine later develops something unrelated — a pump or a heater months afterwards — that is a separate repair. If the part we fitted fails inside those three months, we come back and put it right.

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