An electric oven usually fails in one of two ways: it stops making heat, or it stops letting you use it. The first is normally the fan element, the ring-shaped heater behind the back panel. When it burns through, the fan still whirs and the light still comes on, so the oven looks alive while the food stays cold. When that same element splits and the winding starts leaking to earth it does the opposite, tripping the RCD the moment you switch on and taking the sockets and the lights with it. Between those two extremes sit the slower faults: a thermostat that has drifted, so everything browns on top and stays pale underneath; a sensor feeding the control board a false reading; a clock that has dropped into auto after a power cut and locked the oven out; hinges gone soft, so the door hangs a few millimetres open and bleeds heat; a perished door seal doing the same thing quietly. We work on electric ovens only, single and double, built-in and built-under. The visit starts at the cooker switch and the terminal block, then moves through element resistance, insulation to earth, cavity temperature against the dial, and door closure, so you get a cause rather than a guess. The call-out is £80 and any part needed is quoted before it goes in.
£80
call-out charge per visit
Labour is included for most repairs. More extensive or complex jobs may require additional labour, which we always quote and agree with you before starting. Parts are charged separately and always quoted before we fit them.
We are not registered for VAT. The price we quote is the price you pay.
Usually: The fan element has gone open circuit — the winding has burnt through, often right where it passes the mounting bracket.
On the visit: We draw the appliance out, take off the rear panel and test the element for continuity, then fit a matching replacement and run the oven up to temperature before leaving.
Usually: An element that has split and is now leaking to earth, or moisture that has worked into an element after a heavy clean or a boil-over.
On the visit: We isolate the appliance and insulation-test each element and the loom in turn to find which one is going down to earth, then replace the failed element and re-test before the supply goes back on.
Usually: Thermostat drift, or a temperature sensor that has gone high-resistance and is reporting a cavity that is cooler than it really is.
On the visit: We put a probe in the cavity and compare real temperature against the setting through a full cycle, then change the thermostat or sensor and check the swing once the new part is in.
Usually: The timer has dropped into auto after a power cut and is holding the cook circuit off, or the clock module itself has failed and no longer releases the oven.
On the visit: We reset the timer to manual and show you the key sequence for your model, and if the module has genuinely failed we quote the part before anything is ordered.
Usually: The thermal cut-out is doing its job because the cooling fan has failed or the vent path through the housing is blocked, so heat builds up around the controls.
On the visit: We check the cooling fan actually runs, clear the vents in the housing, and replace the cut-out and the fan where the overheating has already damaged them.
Usually: Dropped hinges that no longer pull the door tight against the frame, or a door seal that has gone hard and shrunk back at the corners.
On the visit: We check hinge play and latch alignment, renew the seal or the hinges as needed, and set the door so it closes flush all the way round.
Usually: The two cavities run on separate elements and often separate controls, so it is normally a failed grill element, a burnt selector switch or a scorched terminal.
On the visit: We test each cavity independently, look for heat damage at the selector and the terminals, and replace only the part that has failed rather than the whole control assembly.
3-month guarantee on the part we replace. Any part we replace is guaranteed for 3 months from the date it is fitted. This covers the replaced part only — it is not a warranty on the whole appliance.
Pick your district for local detail, or just call — we cover 16 districts across West London and Harrow.
Nine times out of ten it is the fan element, the ring-shaped heater behind the back panel of the cavity. The fan and the light run off a separate feed, which is why everything looks and sounds perfectly normal while nothing gets hot. It is a common part on electric ovens and a straightforward change on most models, so the fault is usually confirmed and put right in the one visit.
Almost always the oven. When an element splits, the winding leaks to earth and the RCD drops the whole circuit, which is why the sockets and lights go with it. We isolate the appliance and insulation-test each element in turn, so we can tell you plainly whether the fault sits inside the oven or upstream of it before any part is replaced.
The call-out is £80 per visit, and labour is included for most oven repairs — an element, a thermostat, a door seal or a set of hinges. More extensive work, such as stripping a built-in double oven out of a tall housing to reach a burnt terminal, may need extra labour, which is quoted and agreed with you before it starts. Parts are charged on top and always quoted before they are fitted.
We work on electric ovens only — single and double, built-in and built-under, fan and conventional. Built-in units are drawn out of the housing on their runners, worked on in the kitchen and then refitted and levelled afterwards. If the oven is part of a slot-in cooker with a hob on top, that comes under our cooker and hob repairs instead, and we cover all of it within four miles of Northolt.
Most modern electric ovens have no meaningful user calibration, so a thermostat or sensor that has drifted gets replaced rather than adjusted. We measure the cavity against the dial with a probe first, so you are not paying for a part that was never the problem. Anything we fit carries a 3-month guarantee on that specific part — it covers the component we replaced, not the rest of the oven.