A freestanding electric cooker is really three appliances sharing one control panel and one connection, so the first job on any visit is working out which of the three has actually failed. Hotplates go one at a time: a radiant or solid element that has gone open circuit, or an energy regulator whose contacts have burnt, leaving the ring either stone cold or glowing flat out whatever the dial says. The oven cavity has an element and a thermostat of its own, which is why a cooker can boil a pan quite happily and still refuse to bake. The grill is a third heater again, usually fed through the same selector, and one pitted selector contact will kill it while everything else carries on as normal. Behind all of it sits the terminal block where the cooker's tails land, and that is where heat, vibration and a slack screw quietly cook the connection until the cooker dies outright or drops out halfway through a roast. We work on electric cookers only. The cooker comes out from between the units, the back panel comes off, and each element, switch and thermostat is tested in turn rather than guessed at; we connect to the existing cooker outlet that is already there, and we do not take on wiring work. The call-out is £80 and any part needed is quoted before it goes in.
£80
call-out charge per visit
Labour is included for most repairs. More extensive or complex jobs may require additional labour, which we always quote and agree with you before starting. Parts are charged separately and always quoted before we fit them.
We are not registered for VAT. The price we quote is the price you pay.
Usually: Either a radiant or solid element that has gone open circuit, or an energy regulator whose contacts have burnt and welded shut.
On the visit: We draw the cooker out, test that element for continuity and watch whether the regulator actually cycles, then change the failed part and run the ring through its full range.
Usually: The oven element has gone open circuit — the fan element behind the rear panel on most cookers, or the base element on a conventional cavity.
On the visit: We test each oven element cold and confirm the selector is actually feeding it, then fit a matching element and bring the cavity up to temperature before leaving.
Usually: A grill element burnt through mid-run, or a pitted contact inside the selector switch that no longer passes the current the grill draws.
On the visit: We test the element end to end and check the selector under load to see which one is dropping the supply, then replace only the part that has failed.
Usually: The terminal block where the cooker connects has worked loose and started arcing, discolouring the screws and cooking the insulation on the tails.
On the visit: We isolate at the cooker switch, open the terminal cover, cut back any heat-damaged conductor and remake or renew the block, then check it stays cool under load.
Usually: An element that has split and is now leaking to earth, or damp that has worked into an element after a boil-over or a heavy clean.
On the visit: We insulation-test the oven, grill and hotplate elements one at a time to find which is going down to earth, then replace it and re-test before the supply goes back on.
Usually: Thermostat drift, or a temperature sensor reading high, so the cavity is running well off the number printed on the dial.
On the visit: We put a probe in the cavity and compare real temperature against the setting over a full cycle, then fit a new thermostat or sensor and re-check the swing.
Usually: Hinges that have dropped, so the door no longer pulls tight against the frame, or a door seal that has hardened and shrunk back at the corners.
On the visit: We check hinge play and latch alignment, renew the seal or the hinges as needed, and set the door so it sits flush against the frame again.
3-month guarantee on the part we replace. Any part we replace is guaranteed for 3 months from the date it is fitted. This covers the replaced part only — it is not a warranty on the whole appliance.
Pick your district for local detail, or just call — we cover 16 districts across West London and Harrow.
Usually yes, because it is one component rather than the whole cooker. A ring that stays cold is normally a radiant or solid element that has gone open circuit, and a ring that sits at full heat wherever you set the dial is normally the energy regulator behind that knob. Both are tested on the visit, and either one is a contained change on most freestanding models.
That is one of the most common faults on a freestanding cooker, and it is nearly always the terminal block. Years of heat and vibration slacken a screw, the joint starts arcing, and the conductor discolours. We cut back any damaged tail, remake or renew the block and check it stays cool under load. To be clear about the boundary, we connect to the existing cooker outlet that is already there, and we do not take on wiring work.
The call-out is £80 per visit, and labour is included for most cooker repairs — a hotplate element, an energy regulator, an oven or grill element, a thermostat, a set of hinges. Longer jobs, such as stripping the control panel out of a range-width cooker to reach a burnt selector switch, may need additional labour, which is quoted and agreed with you before it starts. Parts are charged on top and always quoted before they are fitted.
Electric only, single and double cavity, in the usual 50cm, 60cm and 90cm widths, with solid plate or ceramic tops. If your hob and oven are two separate appliances built into the units rather than one cooker standing between them, that comes under our hob and oven pages instead. All of it is covered within four miles of Northolt, across West London and Harrow.
Not on that evidence alone. A grill element that has burnt through part-way along its length still glows where the winding is intact, which looks dramatic but points at a single part. The other suspect is the selector switch, where the grill contact has pitted and no longer carries full current. We test the element for continuity and the switch under load before deciding, and whatever we fit carries a 3-month guarantee on that specific part, not on the cooker as a whole.