Smeg is a design-led brand, and that is not a criticism — it is the fact that shapes every repair on one. People buy a Smeg because of how it looks in the kitchen: the retro fridge in a colour that matches nothing else on the market, the range cooker that anchors the room, the built-in oven specified to match a run of units. That has a direct consequence when something goes wrong. Replacing a Smeg is rarely a straight swap, because the replacement has to look like the one it replaced, and on a fitted appliance it has to fit the same aperture too. Repair therefore protects a good deal more than the appliance itself.
£80
call-out charge per visit
Labour is included for most repairs. More extensive or complex jobs may require additional labour, which we always quote and agree with you before starting. Parts are charged separately and always quoted before we fit them.
We are not registered for VAT. The price we quote is the price you pay.
Underneath the styling the engineering is Italian and conventional, which is good news. Ovens use ordinary elements, thermostats and temperature sensors. Dishwashers use a normal circulation pump, inlet valve and drain arrangement, with the same base-tray flood protection that European machines share — the one that locks the appliance into a permanent drain state and gets mistaken for a failed pump on a weekly basis. Hobs are elements and controls, or on induction a power module and a cooling fan. None of it is exotic once the outer panels are off.
The recurring Smeg jobs cluster around doors and heat. Oven door hinges take a lot of load on the larger cavities and the heavier glass, and once a hinge drops the door stops sealing along the top, heat escapes and the oven starts cooking unevenly — which people report as an element fault. Door seals harden and flatten. On the range cookers, individual cavities and elements fail while the rest of the appliance is perfectly healthy, and that is very much worth repairing on an appliance of that size and cost. On the retro fridges the common calls are door seals, drain channels blocked so water pools under a drawer, defrost circuit faults and lighting or control issues.
The honest caution is parts. Smeg supply is not as deep or as fast as the big European volume brands. Common items — elements, thermostats, sensors, seals, pumps — are generally obtainable without much trouble. Model-specific trim, control panels, coloured door furniture and older cosmetic parts can take longer to source and cost more, and on a discontinued model they occasionally cannot be got at all. We establish availability before quoting rather than promising a repair we might not be able to complete.
Our verdict is that a Smeg is usually well worth repairing, precisely because replacing one is such an expensive and disruptive proposition. A hinge, a seal, an element or a sensor puts an appliance that anchors the kitchen back into service. Where a control panel or a cosmetic assembly is involved we will check we can actually get it before you commit to anything. We are independent, with no manufacturer relationship. The visit is £80, covering diagnosis and labour on most repairs, with parts quoted before fitting.
Usually: Hinge wear, which happens sooner on the larger cavities and heavier glass doors these ovens use, and is often accelerated by the door being leaned on or used as a shelf while hot.
On the visit: We remove the door, replace the worn hinge assembly and reset the alignment so the seal bears evenly again — which usually cures a separate complaint about uneven cooking at the same time.
Usually: An individual element or thermostat has failed. On a multi-cavity appliance each oven has its own heating and control circuit, so a failure in one says nothing about the health of the others.
On the visit: We test each element, thermostat and sensor in the affected cavity separately, and replace only what has failed. On a cooker of this size that is almost always the sensible repair.
Usually: The flood-protection float in the base tray has been lifted by water pooling underneath, so the machine has locked into a protective drain state. The leak is usually a sump seal or hose joint.
On the visit: We draw the appliance out, dry the tray, reset the float, then run it with a panel removed so the real source is found before anything is ordered — the pump is nearly always healthy.
Usually: The drain channel at the back of the compartment has blocked with debris, so condensate that should run away backs up into the cabinet and eventually over the lip of the drawer.
On the visit: We clear the drain channel and the outlet through to the tray, check the door seal is still pulling tight, and confirm the defrost circuit is working as it should before we finish.
Usually: Usually overheating: the cooling fan beneath the hob has clogged with dust, or the appliance has been installed with its ventilation gap obstructed by a drawer or shelf below the worktop.
On the visit: We lift the hob, clean the fan and airway and check the installation clearances. If the power module or touch control has genuinely failed we confirm the part is obtainable before quoting.
Electric domestic appliances only, in your home, across 16 districts within 4 miles of Northolt.
3-month guarantee on the part we replace. Any part we replace is guaranteed for 3 months from the date it is fitted. This covers the replaced part only — it is not a warranty on the whole appliance.
Usually yes, and more so than the raw cost of the part might suggest. People choose a Smeg for how it looks, so replacing one is rarely a straight swap — the replacement has to match the kitchen and, on a built-in model, the existing aperture as well. That turns a failed hinge or element into a much larger job than it needs to be. Repairing a hinge, a seal, an element or a sensor puts the appliance back into service and leaves the kitchen alone.
It depends on the part. Common functional items — elements, thermostats, temperature sensors, door seals, pumps and valves — are generally obtainable without much difficulty. Model-specific trim, control panels, coloured door furniture and older cosmetic components can take longer and cost more, and on a discontinued model occasionally cannot be sourced at all. We check availability before quoting rather than starting a repair we might not be able to finish.
The first thing to check is the door rather than the element. These ovens have large cavities and heavy glass doors, and once a hinge wears the door stops sealing along the top edge, so heat escapes continuously and the temperature in the cavity never settles. A flattened door seal does the same thing. Both are far less expensive than the element people usually expect, which is why we check the door and seal before measuring anything else.
Yes. Each cavity on a multi-oven appliance has its own heating and control circuit, so a failure in one says nothing at all about the health of the others, and it is common for a large cooker to need only a single element, thermostat or sensor. On an appliance of that size and cost the repair is almost always worth doing. We work on electric appliances only, so an electric range cooker is squarely within what we cover.
Have the model and serial details from the rating plate to hand if you can find them — it is usually on the door frame, behind the kick plate or on the back of the appliance. It lets us check the part before we arrive.