Both compartments are cold and the food is fine, but the ice maker has stopped and the bin never refills.
Usually: Nine times out of ten the fill tube has iced over or the water inlet valve has failed, so the mould never gets its measured shot of water; occasionally the ice maker module itself has stopped cycling.
On the visit: We clear the fill tube under controlled heat, meter the inlet valve and the harness feeding the module, then force a harvest cycle and watch a full fill, freeze and eject before we call it done.
Since a new filter cartridge went in, the water dispenser coughs, spits air and delivers a trickle.
Usually: Air trapped in the line behind the new cartridge, a filter head that has not seated and locked home, or a supply valve that was never turned fully back on afterwards.
On the visit: We reseat the cartridge, purge the line through the dispenser until it runs solid and quiet, and check the incoming pressure so a weak house supply does not get blamed on the appliance.
The freezer half is rock solid but the fridge half is warm, and the salad drawers are the worst of it.
Usually: On a side-by-side the fresh food side is fed through a duct and a motorised damper, so an iced evaporator, a stalled fan or a damper stuck shut closes that path long before the freezer suffers.
On the visit: We take off the freezer back panel to read the frost pattern, run the fan on test with the door switch held in, and prove the damper opens and shuts on demand before deciding which part is at fault.
A code is flashing on the door display and the appliance is beeping, but nothing obvious has changed inside.
Usually: Most codes on these models point at a single sensor or fan — a thermistor gone open or short circuit, a fan not reporting its speed back, or a defrost cycle that failed to complete.
On the visit: We read the stored codes, then prove the fault at the component with a meter rather than trusting the code alone, and clear the memory afterwards so an old entry cannot mask a new one.
The lights, display and dispenser all work, but neither side has cooled since delivery day or since a power cut.
Usually: Usually demo mode, the retail setting that keeps everything lit while the cooling is held off, switched on by a key combination on the panel or triggered when power was restored.
On the visit: We check the panel for the demo indicator before anything is dismantled, take the appliance out of that mode, then stay long enough to see both compartments pulling down properly.
The two doors no longer line up, one sits proud of the other, and frost or condensation forms along the edge.
Usually: These doors are heavy, and with bottles loaded in the racks the hinge and cam wear, the cabinet settles off level, and the door seal stops pulling flat against the frame.
On the visit: We level the cabinet, adjust the hinge and any alignment pin, and renew the seal where it is deformed rather than simply dirty, then test the closure with a paper pull along every edge.
Water pools under the salad drawers, or a sheet of ice builds across the freezer floor and lifts the bottom basket.
Usually: The defrost drain has blocked with debris or frozen solid at the trough, so melt water backs up into the cabinet instead of running out to the tray at the back.
On the visit: We clear the drain and its trough, check the small drain heater or clip where the model has one, and flush the route through so the next defrost drains away instead of freezing in place.