Logik is a retailer's own-brand, not a manufacturer, and everything about repairing one follows from that. The appliances are commissioned from outside factories and sold under the badge, so the name on the door tells you almost nothing about what is inside. Two Logik washing machines of different vintages can be entirely different machines. That is why the first thing that happens on the visit is a look at the rating plate rather than the fascia: the model and production details on that plate are what determine which parts fit and whether they can still be got.
£80
call-out charge per visit
Labour is included for most repairs. More extensive or complex jobs may require additional labour, which we always quote and agree with you before starting. Parts are charged separately and always quoted before we fit them.
We are not registered for VAT. The price we quote is the price you pay.
Once identified, the machines are usually built on recognisable budget platforms and behave accordingly. The construction is light — thin cabinet steel, plastic wherever plastic will do, minimal sound insulation, and on most washing machines a sealed outer tub. The components are ordinary and the fault patterns are the ordinary ones too. Pump filters block with the familiar collection of coins, hair grips and bra wire. Heating elements scale up in the hard water across West London and Harrow and eventually break down to earth, tripping the kitchen at the same moment in every wash. Plastic door catches wear until the interlock no longer confirms closed. Dryers stop drying because lint has closed the airway, not because a component has failed. Fridge freezers ice up because a seal has gone hard or a drain has blocked.
All of those are cheap parts and short jobs, and every one of them is worth doing on a machine that is otherwise sound. Generic and pattern components cover a lot of ground here — pumps, elements, thermostats, belts, hoses, shock absorbers and door seals are widely available in near-universal form, which keeps the common repairs both possible and inexpensive.
The limits are worth stating plainly rather than discovering halfway through. Model-specific parts are the weak point: control boards, fascias and particular door assemblies may be unavailable once the retailer has moved to a different supplier, because there is no manufacturer behind the badge maintaining a long tail of spares. And the arithmetic is unforgiving. These are appliances bought at the lower end of the market, so the point at which a repair stops being sensible arrives much sooner than it would on a mid-range or premium machine. A control module, or bearings on a sealed tub where the whole assembly has to be renewed, will frequently cost a good share of what the appliance is worth.
So our verdict splits cleanly. Cheap, quick, common faults: repair, without hesitation, and the machine will go back to work. Expensive or hard-to-source parts: we will usually advise you to put the money towards a replacement instead, and we will say that at the kitchen door rather than after the fact. We are independent, with no manufacturer relationship of any kind, and no interest in selling you an appliance. The visit is £80, covering the diagnosis and the labour on most repairs, with parts quoted before fitting.
Usually: The pump filter is blocked with coins, buttons, hair grips and lint, or the impeller is jammed by a bra wire. A partly blocked standpipe under the sink behaves in exactly the same way.
On the visit: We drain down through the filter hose, clear the filter and free the impeller, check the pump draws current, then follow the sump hose and waste before condemning any component.
Usually: A heating element that has broken down to earth. Elements scale heavily in the hard water here, and on a budget machine they tend to go sooner than they would on a better-built appliance.
On the visit: We isolate the appliance and test element, motor and suppressor to earth in turn, then fit a compatible element identified from the rating plate rather than from the badge on the door.
Usually: Wear in the plastic door catch, handle or hinge, so the striker no longer reaches far enough into the interlock for the machine to accept that the door is shut.
On the visit: We strip the door and check the catch, handle and hinge alignment, replacing the worn part. The interlock itself is often perfectly healthy and does not need to be changed at all.
Usually: A door seal that has hardened and no longer pulls tight, a drain channel blocked with debris, or a defrost heater or sensor that has stopped clearing the evaporator as it should.
On the visit: We check the seal, clear the drain path and test the defrost circuit. All three are inexpensive repairs — we do not work on the cooling circuit and will say so if that is the fault.
Usually: Blocked airflow rather than a failed part: lint packed into the filters, the condenser or heat exchanger and the ducting, so moisture cannot be carried out of the load.
On the visit: We strip and clean the airway end to end, then test the heater and thermal cut-outs. The airflow is corrected first, because a new heater in a blocked airway will fail again quickly.
Electric domestic appliances only, in your home, across 16 districts within 4 miles of Northolt.
3-month guarantee on the part we replace. Any part we replace is guaranteed for 3 months from the date it is fitted. This covers the replaced part only — it is not a warranty on the whole appliance.
Logik is a retail own-brand rather than a manufacturer, so the appliances are commissioned from outside factories and sold under the badge. It matters a great deal for a repair, because two machines carrying the same name can be entirely different underneath depending on who built them and when. That is why we read the rating plate on the visit instead of trusting the fascia — the details on that plate decide which parts will fit and whether they can still be sourced.
For the common faults, yes. A drain pump, a heating element, a thermostat, a door catch, shock absorbers or a blocked dryer airway are all cheap parts and quick jobs, and they account for most of what goes wrong on these machines. Where we get cautious is a control module or a bearing job on a sealed tub, because on an appliance bought at this end of the market those repairs can cost a large share of what the machine is worth.
For the ordinary functional components, usually yes. Pumps, heating elements, thermostats, belts, hoses, shock absorbers and door seals are widely available in generic or near-universal form, which keeps the common repairs both possible and inexpensive. Model-specific items are the difficulty — control boards, fascias and particular door assemblies can become unobtainable once the retailer moves to a different supplier. We check availability before quoting so you are not left with a machine in pieces.
Almost always one of three things, and all of them are repairable. A door seal that has gone hard or distorted lets warm damp air into the cabinet, and that moisture freezes on the coldest surface it can find. A blocked drain channel makes water pool and refreeze instead of running away. A failed defrost heater or sensor means the frost is never cleared at all. We check the seal and the drain first because they are the least expensive to put right.
Have the model and serial details from the rating plate to hand if you can find them — it is usually on the door frame, behind the kick plate or on the back of the appliance. It lets us check the part before we arrive.