Hoover is a name most people in this country associate with vacuum cleaners, but the washing machines, dryers and dishwashers carrying the badge are a separate business, and they share their engineering almost entirely with Candy. The two brands sit under the same ownership, now within the wider Haier group, and across the range they are the same appliances with different fascias and different programme names. Take the lid off a Hoover washing machine and a Candy one and you will be looking at the same drum, the same pump, the same door mechanism and very often the same control module. If you have owned both and thought they felt similar, you were right.
£80
call-out charge per visit
Labour is included for most repairs. More extensive or complex jobs may require additional labour, which we always quote and agree with you before starting. Parts are charged separately and always quoted before we fit them.
We are not registered for VAT. The price we quote is the price you pay.
That shared platform is genuinely useful on a repair. Parts cross between the badges, they are stocked through the same aftermarket channels, and a fault pattern learned on one applies straight to the other. It also means the weaknesses are shared, and there are a few worth naming. Door handles and hinges on these machines are plastic assemblies that take a lot of abuse, and a handle that has stopped catching or a hinge that has cracked is one of the most common calls we take on the brand. The door lock circuit is another regular, sometimes because the interlock has genuinely failed and sometimes because the handle is no longer pushing the catch home far enough for the machine to accept it.
Electronics are the other theme. Hoover leaned into app control and programme downloading earlier than most, and the more of an appliance that lives in a control board, the more of its faults end up there too. A machine that starts a programme and then stops without a clear reason, or one that will not accept a start command despite everything else looking normal, is often a board or a connection into it. Boards are the expensive part on a machine that was not expensive, and that changes the arithmetic. We say so before quoting rather than after.
The mechanical faults are the ordinary ones. Drain pumps choke on coins and bra wire. Heating elements scale up in the hard water here and eventually trip the kitchen. Shock absorbers wear and the machine walks across the floor on spin. Condenser dryers block up with fluff in the heat exchanger and stop drying properly long before anything actually fails. All of those are cheap parts, straightforward jobs, and clearly worth doing.
Our honest verdict sits in the middle. A Hoover is worth repairing for the mechanical faults and for the door hardware, which is where most of the calls come from anyway, and those repairs are quick and inexpensive. For a failed main module on an older machine, or bearings on a sealed tub, the sums often stop working, and we would rather tell you that at the kitchen door than take your money for a repair we would not do on our own appliance. We are independent, with no manufacturer relationship at all. The visit is £80, covering diagnosis and labour on most repairs, with parts quoted before fitting.
Usually: The plastic handle assembly or the hinge has worn or cracked, so the catch no longer pushes far enough into the interlock for the appliance to register the door as closed.
On the visit: We strip the door, check the handle mechanism, hinge and catch alignment, and replace the worn part — the interlock itself is often perfectly healthy and does not need touching.
Usually: Most often the door lock circuit has not confirmed closed. Beyond that it is the control module or a connection into it, which is a much more expensive answer and worth ruling out properly first.
On the visit: We test the door circuit and the interlock before going anywhere near the board, then take readings at the module so you are not paying for electronics on a suspicion.
Usually: The pump filter is packed with coins, hair grips, lint and buttons, or the impeller is jammed by a wire out of an underwired bra. A partially blocked waste pipe behaves identically.
On the visit: We drain down through the filter hose, clear the filter, free the impeller and confirm the pump draws current, then work outwards along the sump hose and the standpipe under the sink.
Usually: Airflow. The fluff filter, the condenser or heat exchanger and the airway behind it clog with lint, so the moist air cannot give up its water and the cycle achieves very little.
On the visit: We strip and clean the filters, condenser and the whole airway, then test the heater and thermal cut-outs. Airflow always gets fixed first, because a new heater in a blocked airway simply fails again.
Usually: Worn shock absorbers or tired suspension are the usual cause and are inexpensive to put right. A deeper rumbling roar that builds with drum speed points instead at the bearings.
On the visit: We check the feet are level and the absorbers still have resistance, then rock the drum to separate a suspension issue from bearing wear, and tell you which of the two you actually have.
Electric domestic appliances only, in your home, across 16 districts within 4 miles of Northolt.
3-month guarantee on the part we replace. Any part we replace is guaranteed for 3 months from the date it is fitted. This covers the replaced part only — it is not a warranty on the whole appliance.
Very largely, yes. The two brands are owned together within the wider Haier group and share platforms across the washing machine, dryer and dishwasher ranges, so the drum, pump, door mechanism and frequently the control board are common between them. The differences sit in the fascia, the programme names and the styling. For repairs this is helpful: parts cross between the badges, and a fault pattern seen on one points you straight to the answer on the other.
The most common reason is that the door is not shut as far as the machine is concerned. The handle and hinge assemblies on these machines are plastic and take a lot of wear, and once the catch stops pushing fully home the interlock never confirms closed, so the appliance simply refuses to begin. The fix is usually the handle or hinge rather than the lock itself, which is the cheaper of the two. If the door circuit is healthy, we move on to the control board.
For the faults these machines actually get, usually yes. Door handles, hinges, drain pumps, heating elements and shock absorbers are all inexpensive parts and quick jobs, and they cover most of what goes wrong. The repairs we get cautious about are a failed main control module on an older machine and drum bearings on a sealed tub, because both can approach what the appliance is worth. You will get that verdict on the visit, before anything is ordered.
On a condenser machine that is nearly always airflow rather than a failed component. Lint builds up in the filters, in the condenser or heat exchanger and in the ducting behind it, and once the air cannot move freely the machine cannot pull moisture out of the load no matter how long it runs. We strip and clean the whole airway, then test the heater and the thermal cut-outs, because fitting a heater into a blocked airway just kills the new part too.
Have the model and serial details from the rating plate to hand if you can find them — it is usually on the door frame, behind the kick plate or on the back of the appliance. It lets us check the part before we arrive.